Written by Rachelle Dupree for Dermascope Magazine, October, 2018 – Print and Online https://www.dermascope.com/digital/October2018/ Today, it is difficult not to notice the growing trend for natural, organic, and less chemically-laden products. Everything from foods to home goods to skin care has changed course from laboratory formulations to producing the purest products possible. As professionals, is it necessarily better to advise clients to make the switch? Recent studies show almost 50 percent of consumers today are buying natural beauty products and a further eight percent slowly making the switch from more formulated brands. Given the choice between a moisturizer that contains tea tree oil, lavender, or rosemary over one that contains dicaprylate, cholesterol sulfate, potassium sulfate, and decarboxy carnosine HCL, most clients would choose the former. But those familiar-sounding botanical ingredients might not always be the smartest choice when it comes to the health of clients’ skin. One must consider the fact that not all plants are beneficial. Take, for instance, poison ivy. It is a totally natural plant – but one should not rub it on his or her face. Allergic reactions can be experienced from a multitude of ingredients, including botanicals. It might not be carcinogenic, but that does not remove the possibility it could irritate the skin. It is always a best practice to do a small skin patch test on a client’s skin before using a product. Many dermatologists have found the top triggers of allergic reactions in their patients can be experienced from natural, plant-based ingredients like eucalyptus, tea tree oil, and rosemary. Even if a client is not allergic, some mint-based and citrus-derived ingredients are common causes of skin irritation. They may not cause a full-blown allergic reaction, but they can still create an itch and a rash. This effect can be experienced by simply adding a natural essential oil, like cinnamon, to hot bath water. Patients are often shocked to hear their rashes, blisters, itchy skin, and swollen eyes can be caused by Mother Nature. Overall, botanical products are not bad – just do not assume they are the best for everyone. When in doubt, test it out. For the vast majority of clients, most skin products are safe. Indeed, some fare better with soothing botanicals than formulations. Dermatologists caution that allergies are not inherent, they develop over time. A client can use a particular product for years and then one day develop an…
Read MoreHold The Needles – Benefits of Acupressure
Hold the Needles: the Beauty Benefits of Acupressure Written by Rachelle Dupree, marketing, communication, and design at Vivoderm Natural Skincare, published in Dermascope Magazine, July 2018 © https://www.dermascope.com/digital/July/ https://www.dermascope.com/wholistic/9525-hold-the-needles-the-beauty-benefits-of-acupressure In recent years, acupressure and acupuncture have moved from a little-known, holistic health practice to a proven, mainstream, medical treatment. Acupressure (much like acupuncture, but without using needles) is a 5,000-year-old Chinese medical practice used to relieve pain, reduce stress, and promote health and wellness through unblocking or stimulating certain meridians (or Qi) found all over the body and face. Treating the acupoints of the face promotes the flow of Qi and increases blood flow throughout the skin, while helping to remove toxins. Cosmetic acupressure can help the face look healthier from the inside out. Acupressure relies on the same system of channels and points as acupuncture, stimulating the points by applying gentle pressure on specific areas of the face or body instead of inserting needles. Acupressure is safe, effective, and easy to learn, making it a wonderful addition to any facial treatment. Massaging trigger points is simple, soothing, and will help with all types of facial concerns – from reducing fine lines to diminishing stagnation or edema – by bringing skin into better balance by increasing oxygenation and blood flow. Do not worry about locating exact points of pressure. The face and scalp are rich with trigger points and any point that is tender should receive extra attention. Always start with singular pressure for approximately 30 to 60 seconds, followed by small, circular motions around the designated area. Adding a few drops of a favorite essential oil to the facial massage oil or skin care product can also create an extra rejuvenating and fragrant experience. First, place a few drops of essential oil into the palms and rest the cupped hands over the client’s nose to inhale for aromatherapy benefits before the pressure point massage. Begin with a quick, soothing, all-over facial massage, including the neck and clavicle area in uplifting, gentle strokes. Third Eye Point The “third eye” is one of the most common acupressure points, found exactly in between the eyebrows, where the bridge of the nose meets the forehead. Apply mild pressure on this point with the index finger for 60 seconds. This area, and the surrounding eye area, is directly related to the endocrine or pituitary gland and will improve skin texture, reduce inflammation, and improve overall…
Read MoreDiscovering the Difference Between Toners, Astringents, Hydrosols and More
The Name Game: Discovering the Difference Between Toners, Astringents, Hydrosols, and More Originally published in Dermascope Magazine, April 2018 – Print and Online https://www.dermascope.com/digital/April2018/ https://www.dermascope.com/resources/the-name-game-discovering-the-difference-between-toners-astringents-hydrosols-and-more The difference between toners and astringents, and knowing which ones work best, can be confusing, as there are a myriad of products on the market listed as toners, astringents, mists, hydrosols, floral waters, and, more recently, micellar cleansing water. The main difference between toners and astringents is the alcohol content. Toners and astringents can both be used to improve the surface of the skin through various ingredients. Toners typically help to remove traces of oil, perspiration, or makeup from the skin, while an astringent may be alcohol- or chemically-based and is used to deep clean the skin and close pores. Herbal toners are best for clients with normal-to-sensitive skin, while standard astringents work best on oily-to-combination or acne-prone skin. Today, there are countless varieties of formulas available; so, professionals can customize their clients’ facial experience. Spend time researching herbal and plant ingredients to understand their efficacy and best uses for client skin types. Besides herbal varieties, today’s toners can also contain a myriad of vitamins, acids, and vegetable or fruit extracts. They can be applied in both spray form and topically. Depending on the formula and use, sprays can be convenient and easy for use on-the-go, while topical versions may be best applied during home care routines. BENEFITS Many skin care products containing acids or SPF can disrupt normal pH balance. Using a toner after daily cleansing helps restore the disrupted acid mantel quickly. In addition, many skin toners help keep moisture locked in and can be used on-the-go when there is no time to wash the face. Spritzing the face on a hot summer day or a refreshing mist after a long plane ride or workout can be very satisfying. Facial toners and astringents also remove embedded oil and dirt, creating the appearance of smaller pores. Toners can reduce or remove harmful minerals and chlorine that may be present in tap water. CONTRAINDICATIONS Due to their typically gentle formulas, which are created to soothe and tone the skin, skin toners and astringents have few side effects. Excessive alcohol base may be the main culprit for irritation and allergic reactions. Ask clients if they have any issues with herbal- or plant-based ingredients. Choosing products that are sulfate-free and paraben-free also helps prevent the skin from…
Read MoreCellulite Uncovered: Homecare and Medical Spa Treatments
Written by Rachelle Dupree for Dermascope Magazine, February 2018 © https://www.dermascope.com/treatments/cellulite-uncovered-homecare-and-medical-spa-treatments Though a new wave of body positivity has emerged embracing women of all shapes and sizes, the sentiments surrounding cellulite are largely unchanged – it is still seen as undesirable. Store shelves are lined with products promising to diminish the appearance of dimpling. Medical spas offer treatments boasting longer-lasting results. But, will there ever be a cure? Cellulite is a modern condition that has created more confusion than answers. Researching basic information about the topic can result in a myriad of conflicting data. Medical professionals believe cellulite is a non-issue, albeit unsightly. Due to the unsightly nature of the condition, spa treatments, creams, and claims on its causes and cures abound. Cellulite, which is not to be confused with cellulitis or celluloid, has been classified medically with a variety of nomenclature, including adiposis edematosa, dermopanniculosis deformans, status protrusus cutis, and gynoid lipodystrophy. The suffix ‘ite’ usually refers to inflammation in medicinal vernacular, so the term “cellulite” is technically incorrect; it is, however, widely used and accepted by physicians and the general population. In basic terms, cellulite is the extrusion of fat pockets through layers of fascia or connective tissue just under the dermis that can be seen through the top most epidermal layer, creating skin puckering and dimpling. This effect often occurs on the hips, buttocks, and abdomen. Cellulite occurs in most post-pubescent females and among 85 to 98 percent of women, indicating that it is physiological rather than pathological. It can result from a complex combination of factors ranging from hormones to heredity. AESTHETIC DERMATOLOGY Historically, the concept and naming of cellulite has only been around for the last century, when a number of early European clinicians all tried their hand at describing and identifying the anatomy and histology of fat. In the 1920s, French physicians Alquier and Paviot described “cell-u-leet” as a “non-inflammatory cellular disorder of mesodermal origin.” In 1973, cellulite became a household term, thanks mostly to Nicole Ronsard’s best-selling book, “Cellulite: Those Lumps, Bumps, and Bulges You Couldn’t Lose Before.” Following this book, the idea of cellulite officially entered culture as a new dermatological condition. Perhaps it was this new dermatological focus that brought the lumpy, bumpy skin into light. But, more likely, it is a result of the fact that the modern, western woman has been baring more skin in the past century than ever…
Read MoreUnderstanding Hydrosols and Essential Oils
Written by Rachelle Dupree, marketing, communication, and design for Vivoderm Natural Skincare Published in the December 2017 issue of Dermascope Magazine © https://www.dermascope.com/wholistic/understanding-hydrosols-and-essential-oils Many aestheticians and spa owners today are looking to new trends and technology to increase their client base and services. In light of the growing organic lifestyle preferences, why not look to ancient remedies. as well? Aromatherapy and treating ailments with essential oils is a practice thousands of years old that has seen a resurgence of popularity in the last few decades. A lesser-known component of the essential oil making process is called a hydrosol. Many have never heard of hydrosols or may have confused them with cheaper, adulterated versions of flower waters. Incorporating natural hydrosols and essential oils into salons or spa treatments can offer exciting, new options to clients and increase revenue streams. WHAT IS A HYDROSOL? Hydrosols are the condensate result of steam distillation of plants or flowers produced when creating a natural essential oil. The top floating layer of essential oil is removed and the remaining 90 percent of the water is considered hydrosol. Hydrosol is a chemistry term meaning “water solution.” In Latin, “hydro” – meaning water – and “sol” – meaning solution. The terms “hydrosol” and “herbal distillates” are most common to the United States. In France, the top producer of modern fragrances, the term changes to “hydrolait,” meaning water-milk. The terms, floral water, herbal water, toilet water, and aqua vitae are commonly interchanged with hydrosol — but, beware. The two products can differ vastly depending on the producer. A pure hydrosol will be solely plant-based and food grade — meaning edible. Typical floral waters you may find in supermarkets, drug stores, or ethnic food shops may contain non-organic ingredients such as alcohol, chemically produced fragrance or man-made food dyes. Most often they are infused with essential oils —which is not the same thing as a true hydrosol. Pure hydrosols will contain some of the same aromatic molecules as essential oils but in a much lower concentration. They are typically clear and colorless and have a light, trace aroma of the original plant or flower. Hydrosol pH Data on hydrosol pH varies, but most can be found in the 3 to 7 range; three being more acidic and seven being close to neutral, depending on the plant used. Additionally, being organic, a true hydrosol will not have the extended shelf life…
Read More