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This article is published in DERMASCOPE Magazine, June 2023 edition – written by Rachelle Dupree https://www.dermascope.com/freedigital/June2023/?page=87 Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are mild acids and gentle chemical exfoliants com­monly used in skin care treatments to improve the appearance and health of skin. First used in skin care in the 1970s, beta hydroxy acids are a type of hydroxy acid, or organic compounds containing a hydroxyl (OH) group. AHAs vs BHAs In the world of skin care products, the most common acid-based ingredients are beta hydroxy acids and alpha hy­droxy acids. Both are typically naturally derived from plant materials, although some are synthesized. While they both perform similar functions, the difference is the chemical com­pound structure between the two. While alpha hydroxy acids are separated from the hydroxy part of the molecule by one carbon atom, beta hydroxy acids are separated by two carbon atoms. This distinction means that common beta hydroxy ac­ids are oil-soluble and have a greater ability to penetrate the lipid layers between skin cells, while alpha hydroxy acids are water-soluble and cannot penetrate skin at a deeper layer. This makes beta hydroxy acids the superior choice ingredient for treating acne. SKIN CARE Commonly derived from natural sources such as plants, tree bark, fruit, some dairy products, as well as synthetic sources, beta hydroxy acids have a number of beneficial prop­erties that make them useful for oily and acne-prone skin. Beta hydroxy acids’ oil-soluble structure also means they can break down dirt and other debris from skin to remove impuri­ties. This makes them effective at treating a variety of skin conditions including blackheads and whiteheads. They also assist with basal cell layer stimulation and remove surface cells, which can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in addition to hyperpigmentation Beta hydroxy acids are also anti-inflammatory, meaning they can help reduce the redness and inflammation associated with acne and other skin conditions. Salicylic Acid One of the most common types of beta hydroxy acids is salicylic acid (a derivative of salicin), a natural ingredient de­rived from plants such as willow bark and oil of wintergreen. As a keratolytic medication, it is one of the most popular in­gredients in acne treatments and works by dissolving some of the deeper pore-clogging bonds between skin cells. This effect also produces easy exfoliation by softening or slough­ing off the top layer of skin. It is generally considered safe for most skin types…

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